Stay another day...

Written on Monday, Nov. 23rd:


Well this town has lived up to it's reputation: everywhere you look, 'stay another day' is written as the town's motto-of-sorts. They pride themselves on the fact that the town has something for everyone and that you will, undoubtably, stay longer than you originally planned. Touché Luang Prabang... You got me. Between the weather, my indecisive mind, meeting heaps of good people and this little town being so homey, I have overstayed my original plans and 'stayed another day'... And thank heavens I have.

I now sit on the banks of the Mekong sipping a lao coffee wearing shorts and a tank under blue skies and a hot sun. Though my time here thus far has been wonderful, it has also been cold... And with a limited supply of warm clothes, cold has felt more like freezing. Nights have been more miserable than freezing. I have been wearing my one pair of yoga pants and two long sleeved shirts night and day. My sarongs quickly became scarves and my socks were unpacked for about the second time this trip. But now.. Oh it's just gorgeous and everyone is just as psyched as the next that it is sunny and warm again (almost Seattle-like). I am just hoping that it continues to stay warm as I head up north tomorrow for a few day stay in Nong Kiwah and Muang Ngoi.

Despite the chilly climate, I have fallen in love with this place. I love the night market and it's array of food- from veggie buffets to unlaid chicken eggs and bbqed toads to whole pig heads. I love the children here who are never shy and always scream 'sabadeeeeeee' as you walk by. I love the monks everywhere- running errands and talking on cell phones and playing games just like everyone else. I love the two bare-bottomed boys playing in the river as their dad sets up fishing nets right now; and the crew of six who are building a bridge and taking their lunch break at the moment; and the old man in his blue boat that hasn't moved for at least a half hour... It is all so gorgeous. Everything about this town radiates beauty to me.

A few days ago, chatted with a Canadian woman over breakfast and followed her as she was going to go explore a local village across the river. One of the guys she had met has lived in Laos on and off for the last six years and willingly took the roll of 'tour guide' for the group of 5 girls we had just rounded up. All together we had 2 Americans, 1 Canadian, 1 Belgium, 1 Dutch and 2 Brits. Took a tuk tuk boat across the Mekong to this tiny little village. It is amazing how this small little community has stayed so traditional and underdeveloped even though it is just across the water from LP. Walking up the dirt roads and past homes and little food stands, you (the 'falang' aka-'gringo') eventually attract a rather large group of children. Some just wanted to greet us, others posed for pictures and still others were trying to sell us flowers for the temple- all of them, however, were beautiful kids. We paid the minimal fee to go and see the first temple and was accompanied by 5 little girls who asked us (the entire way up) if we would buy their flowers. They reminded us to take off our shoes and ended up showing how to make an offering and even did their little traditional Laos dance for us while singing along. Beautiful.

Continued on the path through the village and came up to another little temple. This one had a group of young boys playing le petunk with a pile of money and their flip flops. We watched for a bit and said our hellos to a few monks walking around the grounds and then headed up to the caves that were a part of the temple. Three of the boys told us they would give us a tour and followed us up the steps. The cave opening is enclosed by a decrotive metal gate that the boys quickly unlocked for us. The second you walk in, you are hit by a wall of musty, hot air. The smell is not pleasant but is not too overwhelming either. We turn on our torches, breathe through our mouths and head in. There are places of worship and platforms for meditation built into the walls here and there, as are pieces of statues and melted candle wax. There were stairs that took you into numerous other rooms and passages, but I didn't get to see it all before the air became too thin for me and I headed back towards the gate- not being able to breathe is not the best feeling in the world.

Enjoyed the view for a bit longer and then headed back across the river. Our British guide, Nathan, asked our driver to drop us off at a celebration we could hear from the other side. He translated from the driver that the celebration was for the birth and christening of a new baby- the huge party was just set up in the middle of the street and came complete with lots of booze and food and even a karaoke set up. Nathan informed us that many times, if you simply walk by a celebration like this, you are often welcomed in. Well, it took about 30 seconds before Marlene, Lilly and Sassy were all on the dance floor. We got offer after offer to join in the fun but it was obvious that many of these people were well beyond wastey faced. One guy came up to Laura and I and asked us to come join them, then asked for a kiss, then stumbled away when we politely declined. We got to watch a very precious and very old (and probably very drunk) grandmother get up and sing karaoke and I saw one gentleman spill a huge amount of beer on a baby (possibly the one the party was for) as he was trying to top off his beer... And this was all before 2:30pm! It was wonderful to watch and so amazing to see how quickly they invited strangers in to join- just think of a celebration back home... Would that ever happen at a wedding or big party in the states?

Anyways, nice lunch by the river with the crew, seperate ways for a bit, veggie buffet later with the same group and an early night back at the backpackers.

Yesterday was a great day filled with new people, waterfall exploring and just the littlest bit of sunshine. Decided to give up waiting for a sunny day and went to go see the waterfall that's about an hour away. A group of 6 of us from the backpackers took a tuk tuk (freezing!) up the winding roads- filled with water buffalo and dogs and children just hanging out in the street- and were told we had about two hours till our tuk tuk driver would leave. Grabed some food at the bottom and headed up. First stop on the way in: a bear rescue. Due to my illiteracy in Laos writing, I'm still not sure why these bears are endangered but it sounded like they were once killed for medicinal purposes (??). These bears (whatever breed they were) were pretty small, black, had white chests and a large mane/fro that extended out from their faces. They were cute but still not sure why they were there. After a short jaunt up a bit further, you get to the first waterfall and swimming area- as you continue up, the waterfalls become larger, more blue/gray in color and more stunning. Again, I am unable to read any explanation of why this natural phenomonon is here, but limestone rocks have created these little pools that drop off into one another. The water looks nearly opaque in color and is a shade of blue/gray/tourqouise that I have only ever seen in new Zealand at lake ticapoo. It is worth the trip just to see the color of this water. Followed the river up to the largest fall and headed up the trail to the top. Steep but quick hike and a short distance wading in the water and you are on top of the waterfall looking down at the pools below and the mountains all around you. It really is astounding. Made it back down in time to meet up with everyone at the rope swing. Swing once into the icy icy water and dry off to change as quickly as possible. Sit by the fire for a bit and talk to a guy carving wood figures as the other kids run up to the large waterfall. Back in the tuk tuk with wet hair for the ride back down, warm up, chill out, night market with everyone for some food again and two movies in the communal movie room.

This morning was somewhat hectic as I was trying to decide whether to head up north or wait another day. Well, I waited and now I'm basking in sunshine... Happy with my decision and ready to get further in the mountains tomorrow. No ATMs, no electricity except from 6-10pm, and no Internet. Sounds nice.